Pearl Questions, Answered

Pearl Questions, Answered

Honest answers, practical notes, and a few things I’ve learned from working with pearls.

There is no single universal grading system for all pearls, but leading gemological laboratories use many of the same core quality factors. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) evaluates pearls through seven value factors: size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality, and matching. GUILD Gem Laboratories similarly places strong emphasis on luster, surface quality, shape, nacre, and matching, while also considering size and color. In Japan, the Pearl Science Laboratory (PSL) places particular importance on *teri* — the brightness and interference colors created by the nacre.

For me, luster always comes first.

Beautiful luster can make small surface imperfections much less noticeable, while also bringing out the pearl’s different halos and overtones.

One simple trick I use is to look at a pearl in dimmer light. If it still looks bright and lively, that is usually a very good sign. Meanwhile, if it can show good overtones under strong light, that is also a very good sign.

This really depends on you. If you are a perfectionist, then yes, they may matter a lot.

But as I mentioned above, strong luster can make minor imperfections surprisingly easy to overlook. It also depends on the type of jewellery. The same small blemish may be barely noticeable in a full beaded pearl necklace, but easier to see on a single pearl ring.

And one thing I always like to clarify: under a microscope or magnifying glass, almost every pearl will show imperfections (etc., growth marks, small soft indentations). When we describe a pearl as “flawless” or “blemish-free”, we usually mean eye-clean, no obvious imperfections visible to the naked eye.

Even small marks that can only be seen when examining a pearl closely are usually invisible at normal social distance.

Mostly, choose the one you love.

But here is a small secret from my own experience: among pearls of similar quality, pink overtones can sometimes make a pearl appear warmer and visually brighter, while beautiful cool blue overtones are harder to find.

Pearls can gradually change in appearance as they age. They are organic gemstones made from nacre, and long-term exposure to air, skin oils, cosmetics, heat, dryness, and other environmental factors can affect their color and luster.

Good care can slow this process dramatically.

For simple tips on keeping your pearls beautiful, visit our Pearl Care page.

The most reliable way is simple: send it to a professional gemological laboratory. They have proper instruments to identify whether a pearl is genuine and whether its color has been treated.

Please do not test pearls with internet “life hacks” such as scraping them with a knife, burning them. These methods are not reliable, and more importantly, they can permanently damage the nacre.

If you deliberately scratch, burn or otherwise damage the pearl while trying to test it, we cannot accept it for return. I have to make sure every customer receives a completely new piece of jewellery.

For clarity, every pearl sold by Tricky Lucky Pearls is guaranteed to be genuine, and unless clearly stated otherwise, its color is natural. If an accredited gemological laboratory confirms that a pearl we sold as genuine is imitation, we will cover the reasonable testing fee and refund three times the amount you paid for the item.

Usually, not completely.

A proper pearl cloth can remove small amounts of oil, sweat and surface residue, which may make a pearl look brighter again. But cleaning cannot restore damaged nacre or turn an aged or yellowed pearl back into its original condition.

Even professional storage and care products are mainly there to preserve the pearl’s luster, not recreate it once it has been lost.

Yes. According to the Pearl Science Laboratory (PSL) in Japan, cultured pearls may undergo post-harvest processing such as sorting, pre-treatment, bleaching, color adjustment, drilling, and final selection. Bleaching is commonly used to reduce unwanted staining or discoloration, while light color adjustment may be used to refine the overall appearance.

However, these processes do not create the fundamental quality of a pearl. A pearl with naturally strong luster, good nacre, and attractive color already has those qualities before processing. Bleaching does not create luster or *teri*, and a pearl with weak luster or poor nacre will not become a high-luster pearl simply through treatment. In other words, processing can refine appearance, but it cannot transform a low-quality pearl into a genuinely high-quality one.

Pearl cultivation has improved enormously. Both freshwater and saltwater pearl farming have become more efficient, survival rates of the shell (mother of pearl) have improved, and larger quantities of good-quality pearls can now reach the market.

Like most products, pearl prices are influenced by supply and demand.

But truly exceptional pearls are still not cheap. Outstanding luster, beautiful nacre, color and overall quality remain in demand to produce consistently. Exceptional pearls are still the exception, not the rule.

Longer cultivation can also allow more nacre to develop in some types of cultured pearls, which is one reason high-quality production still requires time, skill and careful farming.

If you have sensitive skin, I would usually start with 18k gold, sterling silver, or gold-plated sterling silver, depending on what metals you personally like.

The metal does not change the pearl itself, but its color can change how the pearl looks. Yellow gold may bring out warmer overtones, while silver or white metals can make cool blue, silver or pink tones appear more noticeable.

From a practical point of view, the common choices are quite different. 18K gold is highly resistant to tarnishing and is a beautiful long-term choice, but it is also considerably more expensive than silver and its price changes with the gold market.

Sterling silver is my most commonly used option. It is strong, workable and suitable for many jewellery designs. Its unavoidable downside is tarnishing: silver can darken over time, although in most cases the surface can be cleaned again with a suitable silver polishing cloth.

Gold-plated sterling silver is a good option if you prefer a gold appearance but still want sterling silver underneath.

I’d like to set the record straight regarding gold-plated copper. Many people assume it’s prone to discoloration, but that really depends on whether you scratch it and damage the plated layer. Furthermore, for any gold-plated accessory, the longevity of the finish depends on the thickness of the plating, not the karat value.

Not at all. Pearls might make you look expensive rather than old.

Pearl jewellery has become much more playful, modern and experimental. It can be elegant, rebellious, minimal, or completely unexpected.

Also, growing older naturally is one of the happiest privileges we can have.

I don't think jewellery belongs to any gender.

Pearls, diamonds, gold, silver — none of them need to be limited by whether someone is a man or a woman.

Wear what feels like you.